This city really knows how to throw a catwalk event. New York has its sophistication, Paris has its elite chic and Milan has its verve and pedigree – but in Ff’s opinion, London has kick-in-the-pants vitality that none of the other weeks can match. Antoni & Alison kicked off proceedings this morning, followed by Preen, Caroline Charles, Corrie Nielsen and Orla Kiely, and Bora Aksu after lunch (or should we say, a skinny latte and a sniff of a muffin).
At midday, the flashbulbs really got going when design duo FYODOR GOLAN sent a green glitter-covered model down their catwalk. It’s what London Fashion Week is all about: pushing boundaries, making waves. These days though, the clothes on the catwalk are worthy of the hype too.
This dramatic show was inspired, said the show notes, by Russian peasants, tzars and insects.
The two, Israeli-born Golan Frydman and Latvian Fyodor Podgorny, who last year won the Fashion Fringe Award, said in their blurb that they had played with the ‘juxtaposition between Russian peasants and Russian royalty.’
‘The collection delves into the stories of the final tzars of Russia and the Romanov family and the myth of their daughter Anastasia, the sole surivor of the family massacre, exploring the journey of her escape and the loss of her privilege,’ they said, before going on to reveal that they’d also been bothering science labs in their research, saying they’d been scouring biological books for inspiration on insects which change themselves for protection – hence the girl in the shimmering green carapace.
Russian peasants meets royalty = texture texture texture… and THAT necklace (want)
‘Utilising biology and research from insects from beetles to butterflies, microscopic detail is explored and dissected,’ they said.
‘Focusing on their construction and innate qualities, these are evolved into the pattern process to create fragility and strength reflecting the creature itself in the aesthetic.’
The collection was rich in what the designers called peasant detailing, while braids, traditional weaving and the handicraft techniques that have become FYODOR GOLAN’s trademark provided depth and form.
Last season’s collection was enhanced for AW12 with the addition of tailoring, overcoats and knitwear, featuring ’sculptural lines and luxury detailing’.
Whatever it was supposed to be, we loved the majority of the collection. Strong, moody, attitude-y (yes, we did make that word up) and sometimes flamboyant, made magnificent by those huge collars and necklaces.
Tres bien, boys!
In other LFW news:
Here’s a pic from the Bora Aksu collection, shown this arvo:
Turkish delight: Bora Aksu's printed tights, facial adornments and use of orange, white and pink embroidery and ombre rocked. Very accomplished
A pic from PPQ’s show this evening:
PPQ grows up? Whatever next… Still, they did have bikes on the runway
PPQ design duo Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker said they were inspired by ‘Apocalyptic romance; that was ’all about volume and length and is more grown-up than our past collections.’
It’s true: just look at the pics. Chiffon? Empire-line evening dresses? Bodycon LBDs? Team PPQ have come of age.
AND GUESS WHAT ELSE?
The British Fashion Council (BFC) have announced Alexa Chung as the new BFC Young Style Ambassador.
Alexa Chung for President
Some funny Twit asked the question, isn’t she that already? She is rather the perfect clothes horse, after all. Alexa is obviously over the moon though, saying: ‘I always name London first when asked which city in the world has the best style. There’s something so inherently rebellious about how people naturally style themselves. Brits aren’t afraid to experiment or take risks with how they look, perhaps that’s why London has always been home to the most dynamic and daring designers in the world. I adore fashion and am proud that it’s now officially my job to champion those London designers both new and established that inspire me so much.’
Well said Alexa! (PS got any hand-me-downs you don’t want?)